Regency on a Shoestring: Living the Federal era life right now

September will be men's wear central at the shoe. I have two suits to make over the next few weeks while Pierre is on course. I have tested out some theories and figure I should have no problems once I get underway.

The first is for a gent over on the island (Montreal). He's slowly getting out of soldering and is looking to style himself as a clergyman. William Booth, draper supplied some lovely wool broadcloth and worsted, and Club Tissue some nice shirt linen. Mrs. Milligan's Haberdashery supplied the cotton mull for throat and wrist ruffles on his shirt. We are going for breeches, waistcoat with standing collar, and a shawl collared, frock coat that is well tailored to skim his torso. A bit conservative in fashion, but there's enough imagery of breeches wearing gents in the period that I am good with it.

French Fashion Plate,1811

Portrait of a Young Man, Francois-Xavier Fabre 1809

The Skater (portrait of William Grant), 1782 (oil on canvas), Stuart, Gilbert (1755-1828) National Gallery of Art, Washington

These are the paintings I am using for inspiration. Yes, they span a bit of time, but I feel like the clergy should be a bit more conservative in dress. I did up a little fashion croquis and Jay was happy with the style. I will likely start cutting this week.

For Pierre, because we are going to be doing some teen-era and later stuff, I wanted to try a bit more fashion forward stuff. Fashion forward, but still practical, given our class level. Currently, we live on the south shore of the Saint Lawrence, in farm country, and I had thought about reproducing the quintessential French Canadian couple...

Canadiens, deuxieme moitie du XVIIIe siecle

I might yet, still, but for now, I want a bit more commonplace look for us. That means more of an American look, with French leanings because he is French after all, but, I want more early 19thC stuff than late 18thC, so the Canadiens will have to wait a bit...though if anyone comes across those perfect fabrics, please let me know!

Habit a Collet de Velours, Gilet de Pique, 1816

I did a test run of his trouser draft last week. I have to take in the legs to a more shapely fashion, the draft I started with was from the 1930s to get the fit through the hips I wanted. They won't be skin tight through the leg though, like I have seen in some artwork, but shaped. I made them up in a heavier linen, which may be wonderful for three season wear, but I will be on the (stash) hunt for some suitable wool for ones he can wear in February. His frock coat will be made up in the cross-barred olive wool that I made a suit for myself out of last Fall, I have just enough left over from that project for a coat. I may do the top collar in navy wool that I have scads of...his winter trousers and waistcoat may also be made out of that navy, we'll see once I get Jay's suit finished and I can get back to the less pressing suit for Pierre. Our next event is in February, so I have a bit of time.

There are noticeable differences between late eighteenth-century tailoring and the early nineteenth-century, most importantly, the collar and lapels. This is where the modern suit jacket starts to take shape, with pad stitched lapels and collar over more flexible hair canvas instead of the stiffer buckram. Wool padding over the front shoulder concave also make s a return from earlier in the eighteenth-century, and the whole garment has more tailoring involved. They end up taking almost twice as long with all that padded work. the m-notch collar is also an interesting bit of construction, best done with well fulled wool that you can cut and not worry about turning. When I made my spencer with it's silk top collar, I had to do some interesting facing work to be able to turn the inside points of the M. Pierre's collar will be wool, well fulled.

There are photos from my regency era gown and spencer project and I will write up a full post on that over the next few days. In the meantime, for quick teasers, follow my Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kellyarlenegrant/
All of this is working itself towards more formal writing in my dissertation, as I develop construction techniques and supporting photos. I am also currently writing the chapter on how we use all this research to develop better quality living history programs. The shoe is a busy and happening place these days.