Stepping back in time this year.

If we are going to play with Ticonderoga this year, we will have to step back in time a bit, as the site will be working on interpretation of the French and Indian war period. We will also shift our culture slightly, from my family's history to Pierre's, as we go from being loyalists to portraying a French soldier and his wife. Kit that we wear for Revolutionary period events just won't be appropriate, given that it is almost 25 years later, and a different culture. So this winter, I am building some new pieces of kit, pulling out old kit that we used to wear to Louisbourg, and seeing what pieces are needed to fill out our interpretation.

Truth be told, I have not been impressed with the clothing worn by many people portraying French Canadiens or Acadiens in Canada. I have grown weary of unbuttoned waistcoats, shift and shirt sleeves exposed, sloppy stockings, and messy, unkempt, and uncovered hair. I refuse to believe that Pierre's ancestors were as slovenly as modern day interpreters make them out to be, especially given how 'fashionable' modern French Canadians tend to be! The above image may be late in the 18th-century, but it shows impeccably groomed people, even if they are also the typical farming class that is widespread in French speaking Canada. The modern interpreter looks nothing like this! I won't post a photo, because I don't want to embarrass anyone personally, just do a quick google search and you will understand, if you haven't already had first hand experience. Let's just say, I am going back to basics and doing my own research. Fort Ticonderoga requires a fair degree of accuracy in kit, so I know my research won't be wasted time.

Pierre's kit will be fairly straight forward, build 'this' particular uniform, and be the same as all the other soldiers at the fort. I have to purchase the materials to make the uniform from specific retailers and build it according to extensive guidelines laid out by the fort. For me, an easy task, since I really do enjoy extensive guidelines and understanding what is expected. Even better in my books would be the ability of purchasing a kit to make the uniform, so that I know I have exactly the same fabrics as the other soldiers. Fingers crossed that this is an option.

In the meantime, I am working on some new pieces for myself. I hauled out my 'old brown sacque' from storage, and am still happy with it. Being a linsey, it will be great for summertime wear. It's now gotten some really great heritage too, since it was my only gown for a good number of years. To round out that outfit, I will make a couple of new caps, possibly a new pinner apron (I'd love one in blue), and I have to re-thread my cross on a length of black silk ribbon. For winter or shoulder season though, I need some warm clothes. Since it is always cold in Louisbourg, this will not be a waste of my time, as these pieces will get wear in the future too. I am taking this opportunity to rebuild a gown of my mum's into something that will fit me. Taking it apart, and re-cutting pieces to build into something appropriate for me and the historical period I am wanting to recreate. 

Yesterday, I pulled out my gown pattern, a paper pattern traced from a bodice draping my friend Jenny did for me back in September. A bodice is a fairly straight forward pattern throughout the eighteenth-century. With minor alterations, it can take you from an early sacque, to a late period round gown.

I started with the back lining sections. Instead of seaming the centre back seam straight down to the waist, I added on a facing which was turned back into a double fold from the shoulder blade line downwards. This was hemmed in place with a slip stitch. I also boned each side of the opening with 1/4" nylon zip strap boning backstitched into place. Then I worked the eyelets that will tighten the sacque bodice to my body. Once this was finished, I laid the back lining wrong side up on my work table, and pleated the fashion fabric to the bodice. 

I followed an extant gown pattern from a reputable published book (you know the drill, Sharon Burnston, Linda Baumgarten, Janet Arnold are all reputable resources). I had to alter the pleating pattern slightly to accommodate the amount of fabric I have, I am rebuilding one of mum's gowns after all...that fabric is close to 30 years old...it's all I have. I made sure that my pleats were even and square with the bodice lining, and marked how far down I wanted them stitched. Then, with a running back stitch, 1/8" in from the edge of the fold, I stitched the pleats to the bodice lining. I do this flat on my work table so that the weight of the cloth is supported...that, and for a long period of time, I did not have a dress dolly, and I suspect many sempsters also lack a dress form, so I also teach this way.

The single thing that many people miss when making a sacque is the line of basting that runs underneath the pleats to hold the fabric to the lining all the way down to the waist. If you miss this important line of stitching, you will look like you are wearing a sack instead of a sacque, the bodice will not hug your body, and the pleats will not spring forth from the shoulders. To do this, once the tops of the pleats were stitched, I moved the bottom of the pleats to the side, and ran a running back stitch following the line of pins.

Voila! The finished back panel, pleats stitched down, excess cut away (but saved for later piecing), and a good steam press to the top of the pleats. Today, I will tackle the fronts of the bodice.