Monday, 10 September 2018

Critical Making: Using Material Culture to Create a Visual Narrative


In her opening chapter, Joanne Entwistle informs us that “human bodies are dressed bodies, no culture leaves the body unadorned,” she reminds us that the “very personal act of getting dressed is an act of preparing the body for the social world, and that dress is both an intimate experience of the body and a public presentation of it” (Entwistle 6-7).

OK, so what’s the point?

Recently there was a meme going around the progressive living history community with before and after images. Your first event, and your most recent, with the title, ‘we all start somewhere!’ They were images of folks in cobbled together loaner gear, mis-mashed with modern clothing items, and big grins on their faces because they were finally at a living history event, dressed. It didn’t matter really, what they looked like, it was their first event, and they were having fun. The thought was, getting out is a major hurdle, but what you do with your experiences afterwards is up to you, how far you want to push the accuracy envelope.

Next weekend will see three living history events, if the weather holds. Two major mainstream events in the south east, and a progressive event in New York. The progressive event aims to push the envelope of accuracy in kit, impression, and interpretation. We had strict guidelines to follow, and anyone who wished to participate had to undergo a vetting process. We would send in photos of our gear, and receive back critique from the committee. It was a good challenge for us old-timers who may have let some of our standards slip, to fine tune our game play.

I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to bring a couple of brand new people to the event.

We had guidelines to follow, and a few months to prepare. I could work on interpretation development, and hone teaching points as I guided my small group through the process of garment construction. It would be fun for everyone involved. My original plan was to put Zac in ‘hand-me-downs from Pierre, and focus mostly on Alison, as she would require items that she couldn’t simply borrow from me…mainly stays and a gown that fit her properly. I also chose to try and build as many items from stash fabrics as possible, so that it wouldn’t cost anyone anything. I found a piece of natural toned striped fabric for her gown, and her stays literally came into being from the cabbage bucket. I cut them so closely, I was worried I’d have to piece the fashion layer. Alison did the bulk of the gown construction on her own, through a two day intensive workshop where I fine-tuned my construction notes. I pulled two old petticoats from my wardrobe that I no longer wore, and be-built the waistbands to fit her better…she is a bit smaller than I am.



We finished everyone’s clothes last week. Zac also got new clothing items from stash fabrics, breeches in green linen and a drab coloured workman’s coatee from cabbage from our other friend Trudyann’s stash.  Clothing items that suit his personality and age. I then set to organizing accessories.

This is where my brain started going into high gear. It’s all well and good for people to turn out to their first event in mis-mashed, borrowed gear. But Zac and Alison would be in their own clothes, save for a shirt and shift…and shoes for Zac. Their accessories needed to reflect their own selves. Another of my main objectives was to make them both feel comfortable in their clothes, so they would fit in as much as possible. Zac was easier, a new neckcloth, another borrowed item - a hat, but one that would be re-blocked to his head and have a new liner in it.

Alison was a bit more complex. I pulled a fluffy linen cap, and a pink floral neckerchief. Then, I cut some white linen mitts, and lined them with a cotton print that I will eventually use to make myself a gown. I used pink silk floss to do all the fancy work in sewing them together. Alison’s accessories were decidedly pink. This would go nicely with the natural tones in her gown and petticoats. Alison is younger than I am, and very blonde. She is also very feminine. Her visual narrative was coming together. The last item she would need is a hat.

Remember, she is younger than I am, and blonde. Borrowing one of my hats would have been ok, but not quite right, as I am much darker in complexion, and can pull off different colours than she can. She would need a new hat. I don’t have a straw that I could press into service, and so thought about making a new sun bonnet for her. Back to Trudyann’s stash of leftover bit of fabric gifted to me, and I pulled out some pink silk taffeta.

Bonnet colours in the period have a pronounced leaning towards black. If you look though, there are a few instances where lighter colours turn up. After an afternoon of looking at art, I decided to make the anomaly, a pink bonnet.


There are still a few items that we need to make, like cooler weather gear, shirts, shifts, stockings, and such. But we now have two new living history people, excited to turn out to their first event. Completely in their own clothes. And no farby-ness in sight. We all start somewhere, and I am happy to have been able to help get them started on the right foot.



Bibliography

Entwistle, Joanne. The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress, and Modern Social Theory. Cambridge UK and Maiden MA, USA: Polity Press, 2000.

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